XA FAQ http://simp.ly/p/Hrgjxr
The original FAQ system on this website was provided by Bravenet Web Services but was discontinued with no notice. Here is a snapshot of the last Q&A's. Sorry, it's not very pretty or well organised but I hope it will be of use to you. There is a lot of of information here.
If you have any more questions just email me xafaq@tipps.33mail.com and I'll answer you and add them here. To return To Main Site, use the Back Button of your browser. Thanks for visiting my site.
In addition to myFAQ above, R Lee Hawkins built a big XA FAQ some time ago. Like my own FAQ here, it is no longer updated. It is here
https://web.archive.org/web/20110720030605/http://brashear.phys.appstate.edu/lhawkins/photo/xa.faq.html
The Flickr XA Discussion Group is now the place to ask new questions.
Category: XA Cameras
Q Which is the best XA for me?
A an XA if you want the most control. XA2 (or 3) if you want more point and shoot but still with excellent quality, and low price. XA4 for very wide angle (but rare). XA1 if you really hate batteries.
10 visitor(s) thought this was helpful.
Q
Film counter won't return to 0 is this a possible adjustment ?
A Common problem this. If a sharp tap won't fix it (not too hard though please!) you'll have to take the top off - see the manuals section of the site. Could just be stuck or dirty - only taking the top off will reveal that!
Q I recently purchased an XA-3, with databack and A-11 flash for NZ$60,- (About Euro 30,-) I have a few questions: 1) In the viewfinder, on the left, I can see a small flash symbol. Is this supposed to light up when the flash is switched on/ ready/ f
A The databack is quite rare - few if any were exported outside Japan as far aw we know. The flash just works when you connect it to the body and flick the flash lever over - the symbol just tells you it's connected and you've flicked the lever - not that it is charged. I don't have a DX XA so I can't help on the speeds point - perhaps someone else can. You've got a nice camera there - I do hope you enjoy using it and get some great pictures.
Q What can I expect to pay for an XA in the UK and where can I get one.
A I bought an XA2 at a boot fair last Sunday for 15 pounds with case and flash. I have another XA2 also 15 pounds from a boot fair that has been all round the world with me, and also with it's previous owner. I have an XA1 that cost me 5 pounds again at a boof fair. My latest XA cost 35 pounds from a dealer, but my first one was new at 75 pounds also from a dealer.
Q Where's a good place to get a decent XA?
A Ebay but make sure the seller will take it back if it doesn't work.
Q Not really a question. In your answer to "Which is the best XA for me?" you suggest the XA1 for more control. I presume you mean XA. Nice site, very informative. Cheers Michael
A oops - of corses, XA NOT XA1
Q Can I do fill-in flash with my XA?
A Thanks to Andrew Yue (xyz2000@mail.utexas.edu) for this response: My experience with using the XA's flash unit for fill-flash is that its range is pretty limited. For the A-11 your subject has to stand with 3 to 6 ft when using ISO 100 film. The Olympus XA's A-11 flash has a guide number of 10m/33ft @ ISO 100. Multiply by 1.4 for ISO 200 and the guide number for the flash is 14m/46ft. When ISO 400 film is used the guide number for the flash becomes 20m/66ft. The flash is set to its manual mode for the above values. If the subject is standing 4ft from the camera, then you divide the Guide No. by the distance to the subject for a recommend aperture to use for a flash only exposure. GN 33 divided by 4 is approximately f/8. To do an outdoor fill-flash pop the aperture to flash, which turns on the flash. Then shoot the photo at f/16, the camera. At 6ft from the camera the recommended flash setting is 5.6, so at that point one would shoot at f/11. When using ISO 400 film in full sun, the use of a fill-flash is limited by the upper range of the shutter speed unless one wishes to shoot at f/22. Here with the A11 flash the subject would ideally stand approximately 8 ft from the camera and select f/16 to make the shot. That in a nut shell is about all one can do to use the A-11 flash for an outdoor fill flash. The larger A-16 flash unit has a guide number of 16m/52ft @ ISO 100, which would allow the subject stand between 5 and 10 ft from the camera. I hope this helps and I assumed that photog wishes only to brighten the shadow details so they could be recorded on film.
Q
What did an XA cost when new i.e. in the 1980's?
A It cost around US 280 dollars with a flash - say around UK 180 pounds. The XA2 on the other hand cost around UK pounds 70 new - also with a flash.
Q The XA2,3 and 4 has a programmed exposure system. What exactly does that mean?
A Simply that the camera's exposure metering system sets what it considers to be the best combination of shutter speed and aperture for the light conditions. According to Olympus, it works like this as the light increases: With the aperture at full open (f3.5), shutter speeds decrease till they get to 1/60 sec - about the minimum for good shake-free shots. The pattern is now: 1. Stop down 1 stop. 2. Stop down another stop 2. Move the shutter to 1 faster and open up a stop. Go back to step 1. This equates to 1/60 3.5 1/60 4 (would have been 1/60 5.6 but now shutter speed increases so:) 1/125 4 1/125 5.6 1/250 5.6 1/250 8 1/500 8 1/500 11 1/500 16 1/500 22 I recon Olympus got it dead right!
Q I've been enjoying your beautifully designed website. I have an opportunity to buy an XA from a local dealer. It seems to be in good condition, but because I have nothing to compare it to, I do have a couple of questions. The little lever that adjusts the information in the viewfinder can be a little difficult for eyeglass wearers -
A try the camera in daylight and see if you can operate it - indoors will be more difficult.
A The focussing lever should not be appreciably stiffer as you move it across the range but a tiny bit of resistance would be OK. Best thing is to borrow the camera (against a deposit) for an hour and shoot off a roll of film including close-ups. That will tell you if it's OK or not and also if you can use it with eye glasses.
Q Hi, is there information available that would enable the date/year of manufacture to be established from the serial numbers on the cameras? Thanks. Tony
A Not aware of any such information though I guess Olympus must have it. I'll talk to them.
Q I'm taking an interrail this summer and I intend to look for a xa while I'm travelling (the second-hand camera market is still very small and high-priced in portugal). In which central europe country do you think I would get the best price for one: german
A If you look on Ebay, you'll find that there are lots of XAs for sale in Germany. Prices also tend to be lower in Germany than in UK. I suggest you look on Ebay and get some idea of the prices being paid. Presumably because there are more for sale on Ebay, the same will be true of camera shops. Good luck - I hope you enjoy your travels and find a good XA.
Q I recently acquired a second hand XA4. Do you know where I can find the operation manual of XA4? online pdf version is OK.
A Well done - XA4s are pretty rare and darned good cameras - I wish I had one. I don't have access to an instruction book although if anyone reads this and has one, I'p appreciate a scan. Meanwhile, the XA4 is very similar to the XA2 and that manual is on the site.It's a DX model so it'll set it's own film speed, and the focussing scale is marked differently. Beyond that, there's not much to it. I'm sure you will very soon get the hang of it. Do send us some results!
Q
Dear all: I have some shutter problem with my Olympus XA and XA 4 camera. The problem is that the shutter is not working anymore. When I press the shutter release red button, the shutter is not working,and the winding is also locked. Both my XA and XA
A Assuming the battery is OK, it may be the cover interlock switch problem. How do I fix the cover interlock switch on an XA? The problem prevents the shutter from firing. Thanks to Simon sje@lrc.ruralwales.org and the Olympus FAX from R.Lee Hawkins. Actually repairing the shutter release problem is fairly easy and within the abilities of most people who are reasonably handy. The problem is usually caused by the cover interlock switch. This switch keeps you from firing the camera when the cover is closed and is somewhat subject to getting dirty contacts from dust. If I remember right the switch is under the cover on the top right (as you look at the front of the camera) and is accessed by removing the bottom plate and then removing the sliding cover. Be sure not to loose the little ball bearing the cover rides on. I always recommend working over (or in) a dish to catch the little parts you drop. Only tool needed is a good "0" or "00" phillips screwdriver and maybe some tweezers. You'll see the switch when you remove the cover. I think it may be necessary to remove the top to clean the contacts, it comes off with a couple of screws, and the rewind crank plus I think the release button must be pried off (it's just glued on). All this is somewhat intimidating, the actual repair is not all that bad... Category: Repairs
Q My shutter release is stuck in the down position. I read the repair tip about the cover interlock switch and followed the instructions but that did not help. What should I try next? Thanks, David Price
A I'm assuming the battery is OK on the self-test, and that the wind-on is complete. If the red shutter button is physically stuck down i.e. it does not spring slightly when pressed, you would need to disassemble it. To do that I believe that you need to remove the top cover (which you've done already) and then take the shutter release button apart to clean the contacts. I think it is glued together so you'd have to be careful.
Q I have two xa's and am wondering why the apertures do not seem to be the same. Neither are the needle light readings, or the shutter speeds. The camera with slightly larger apertures and light readings(i gather there are two light meters in the camera) has longer, more sluggish speeds in the same conditions. I have yet to shoot some pictures but can't see how they would perform the same. Which is correct? Could the aperture switch be wrong? If the needle reading is the same why does the slower camera better approximate a second, for example, but at high speeds sound too slow? Thanks!
A It's not uncommon for the XA's indicated shutter speeds to disagree with the actual shutter speed by up to a full stop or so - as you say they are driven by separete cells. But two XAs should give the same actual shutter speed in the same light conditions - for a given aperture film speed of course. My advice is to beg, borrow or steal an exposure meter or other known reliable camera. In an evenly lit room with everything pointing to an evenly lit wall, see which of the XA's actual shutter speeds agrees with the reference meter or camera. You can usually hear this clearly at around a 1 sec exposure. That'll tell you what exposure the XA will actually give and what is indicated. Now, given that repair costs are high, you can compensate for an incorrect exposure with the film speed setting. You's have to use your head to compensate for what is indicated though. At the end of the day, modern films have a very wide latitude - certainly more than 1 or even 2 stops so the problem may not even notice.
Q Hello: My wonderful XA was working beautifully, but all of a sudden the shutter speed needle has disappeared. The shutter seems to be firing at appropriate speeds, but there is no indicator in the viewfinder window. I think I see something that might be the needle way up in the top left corner of the viewfinder. I could be wrong. What has happened? How do I fix it? Thanks for any help you can give.
A That's a real shame. The XA has two separate metering systems - one for the shutter and aperture, the other totally separate systems drives the needle that you used to see. So, everything will still work fine - it's just that you won't see what the shutter speed is going to be. I'm assuming it's not a battery problem. It's always worth trying a little brute force and tapping the base of the camera fairly hard against the palm of your hand - it might possibly dislodge the needle - but don't blame me if it does any damage (it shouldn't though). Ir give the camera a sharp rotation back and forward just with your wrist. If none of that works and the batteries are OK, could be a repair job. There are some repairers on the FAQ page on the r. Lee Hawkins FAQ. perhaps some other folk will have some other ideas.
Q I WOULD LIKE TO USE ASA, 800 BUT 500 WONT HANDLE VERY MUCH LIGHT; CAN I USE AN ND FILTER ON THIS CAMEREA? IF YES, WHERE DO I PURCHASE ONE?
A There are no filters that would fit an XA - because it doesn't have a screw fitting on the lens. You could try to improvise something perhaps by taping a Cokin type filter to the camera.
Q Where can I get a copy of the instructions for using an XA
A On this site - on the XA page It's a PDF. If you want it as just a web page then go to
http://yandr.50megs.com/olympus/xa/xa.htm
Q Are Rayovac 357 (silver) suitable for my XA? Thanks for a very useful site.
A Yes, they are Silver Oxide batteries - equivalent to the SR44 which is the "standard" battery.
Q Not so much a question, I've a comment on the question " I am confused a bit by the DX operations of the XA-3. When is the camera in "DX" mode, and when is it using the manual ISO selection settings? Can I switch back and forth? Does the DX override manual settings when a new cassette is put in? " This question is in the "Photograohy with XA" section. Puzzled by the same question I conducted a little test which to me would seem to be quit conclusive. For this I used an XA3, indoors in average light conditions. I did not load it with film, which implies that DX-coding can not be read by the camera. I then put the ISO setting to 25 and fired the shutter. As might be expected the audible and visible (when looking into the lens) exposure time was rather long. I then changed the setting to 50, 100 and so forth, each time firing the shutter. Again as might be expected the exposure time decreased. Next I put a film casette with DX coding (200 ISO in this case) into the camera without actually advancing the film onto the sprockets, you might need to rewind the film sticking out of the cassette a little to avoid it being taking up. Closed the camera an repeated the above mentioned steps, again changing the ISO setting from 25 upwards and firing the shutter each time. Now no change to the exposure time was discernible, regardless of the manual setting. This indicates to me clearly that the automatic setting when using DX coded cassettes overrides the manual setting. I suppose one could avoid this if so desired by putting some thin tape or a piece of paper over the coding on the cassette or maybe just black out the whole area with a felt tipped pen. I did not try that, don't know whether you could damage the contacts that way. Well that's all, perhaps this information can be usefull to you or visitors to your splendid site. many kind regards, Joan Könings (The Netherlands)
A Thanks Joan for this very useful information.
PHOTOGRAPHY WITH XA
Q Which is the best XA for me?
A XA if you want the most control. XA2 (or 3) if you want more point and shoot but still with excellent quality, and low price. XA4 for very wide angle (but rare). XA1 if you really hate batteries.
Q Film counter won't return to 0 is this a possible adjustment ?
A Common problem this. If a sharp tap won't fix it (not too hard though please!) you'll have to take the top off - see the manuals section of the site. Could just be stuck or dirty - only taking the top off will reveal that!
Q I recently purchased an XA-3, with databack and A-11 flash for NZ$60,- (About Euro 30,-) I have a few questions: 1) In the viewfinder, on the left, I can see a small flash symbol. Is this supposed to light up when the flash is switched on/ ready/ f
A The databack is quite rare - few if any were exported outside Japan as far aw we know. The flash just works when you connect it to the body and flick the flash lever over - the symbol just tells you it's connected and you've flicked the lever - not that it is charged. I don't have a DX XA so I can't help on the speeds point - perhaps someone else can. You've got a nice camera there - I do hope you enjoy using it and get some great pictures.
QWhat can I expect to pay for an XA in the UK and where can I get one.
A I bought an XA2 at a boot fair last Sunday for 15pounds with case and flash. I have another XA2 also 15 pounds from a boot fair that has been all round the world with me, and also with it's previous owner. I have an XA1 that cost me 5 pounds again at a boof fair. My latest XA cost 35 pounds from a dealer, but my first one was new at 75 Pounds also from a dealer.
QWhere's a good place to get a decent XA?
A Ebay but make sure the seller will take it back if it doesn't work.
Q Not really a question. In your answer to "Which is the best XA for me?" you suggest the XA1 for more control. I presume you mean XA. Nice site, very informative. Cheers Michael
A oops - of course, XA NOT XA1 Changed it now Sorry and well spotted
Q Can I do fill-in flash with my XA?
A Thanks to Andrew Yue (xyz2000@mail.utexas.edu) for this response: My experience with using the XA's flash unit for fill-flash is that its range is pretty limited. For the A-11 your subject has to stand with 3 to 6 ft when using ISO 100 film. The Olympus XA's A-11 flash has a guide number of 10m/33ft @ ISO 100. Multiply by 1.4 for ISO 200 and the guide number for the flash is 14m/46ft. When ISO 400 film is used the guide number for the flash becomes 20m/66ft. The flash is set to its manual mode for the above values. If the subject is standing 4ft from the camera, then you divide the Guide No. by the distance to the subject for a recommend aperture to use for a flash only exposure. GN 33 divided by 4 is approximately f/8. To do an outdoor fill-flash pop the aperture to flash, which turns on the flash. Then shoot the photo at f/16, the camera. At 6ft from the camera the recommended flash setting is 5.6, so at that point one would shoot at f/11. When using ISO 400 film in full sun, the use of a fill-flash is limited by the upper range of the shutter speed unless one wishes to shoot at f/22. Here with the A11 flash the subject would ideally stand approximately 8 ft from the camera and select f/16 to make the shot. That in a nut shell is about all one can do to use the A-11 flash for an outdoor fill flash. The larger A-16 flash unit has a guide number of 16m/52ft @ ISO 100, which would allow the subject stand between 5 and 10 ft from the camera. I hope this helps and I assumed that photog wishes only to brighten the shadow details so they could be recorded on film.
Q What did an XA cost when new i.e. in the 1980's?
A It cost around US 280 dollars with a flash - say around UK �180. The XA2 on the other hand cost around UK � 70 new - also with a flash.
Q The XA2,3 and 4 has a programmed exposure system. What exactly does that mean?
A Simply that the camera's exposure metering system sets what it considers to be the best combination of shutter speed and aperture for the light conditions. According to Olympus, it works like this as the light increases: With the aperture at full open (f3.5), shutter speeds decrease till they get to 1/60 sec - about the minimum for good shake-free shots. The pattern is now: 1. Stop down 1 stop. 2. Stop down another stop 2. Move the shutter to 1 faster and open up a stop. Go back to step 1. This equates to 1/60 3.5 1/60 4 (would have been 1/60 5.6 but now shutter speed increases so:) 1/125 4 1/125 5.6 1/250 5.6 1/250 8 1/500 8 1/500 11 1/500 16 1/500 22 I recon Olympus got it dead right!
Q I've been enjoying your beautifully designed website. I have an opportunity to buy an XA from a local dealer. It seems to be in good condition, but because I have nothing to compare it to, I do have a couple of questions. The little lever that adjusts the distance is a bit stiff and the information in the viewfinder can be a little difficult for eyeglass wearers -
A try the camera in daylight and see if you can operate it - indoors will be more difficult. The focussing lever should not be appreciably stiffer as you move it across the range but a tiny bit of resistance would be OK. Best thing is to borrow the camera (against a deposit) for an hour and shoot off a roll of film including close-ups. That will tell you if it's OK or not and also if you can use it with eye glasses.
Q Hi, is there information available that would enable the date/year of manufacture to be established from the serial numbers on the cameras? Thanks. Tony
A Not aware of any such information though I guess Olympus must have it. I'll talk to them.
Q I'm taking an interrail this summer and I intend to look for a xa while I'm travelling (the second-hand camera market is still very small and high-priced in portugal). In which central europe country do you think I would get the best price for one: german
A If you look on Ebay, you'll find that there are lots of XAs for sale in Germany. Prices also tend to be lower in Germany than in UK. I suggest you look on Ebay and get some idea of the prices being paid. Presumably because there are more for sale on Ebay, the same will be true of camera shops. Good luck - I hope you enjoy your travels and find a good XA.
Q I recently acquired a second hand XA4. Do you know where I can find the operation manual of XA4? online pdf version is OK.
A Well done - XA4s are pretty rare and darned good cameras - I wish I had one. I don't have access to an instruction book although if anyone reads this and has one, I'p appreciate a scan. Meanwhile, the XA4 is very similar to the XA2 and that manual is on the site.It's a DX model so it'll set it's own film speed, and the focussing scale is marked differently. Beyond that, there's not much to it. I'm sure you will very soon get the hang of it. Do send us some results!
Q Dear all: I have some shutter problem with my Olympus XA and XA 4 camera. The problem is that the shutter is not working anymore. When I press the shutter release red button, the shutter is not working,and the winding is also locked. Both my XA and XA
A Assuming the battery is OK, it may be the cover interlock switch problem. How do I fix the cover interlock switch on an XA? The problem prevents the shutter from firing. Thanks to Simon sje@lrc.ruralwales.org and the Olympus FAX from R.Lee Hawkins. Actually repairing the shutter release problem is fairly easy and within the abilities of most people who are reasonably handy. The problem is usually caused by the cover interlock switch. This switch keeps you from firing the camera when the cover is closed and is somewhat subject to getting dirty contacts from dust. If I remember right the switch is under the cover on the top right (as you look at the front of the camera) and is accessed by removing the bottom plate and then removing the sliding cover. Be sure not to loose the little ball bearing the cover rides on. I always recommend working over (or in) a dish to catch the little parts you drop. Only tool needed is a good "0" or "00" phillips screwdriver and maybe some tweezers. You'll see the switch when you remove the cover. I think it may be necessary to remove the top to clean the contacts, it comes off with a couple of screws, and the rewind crank plus I think the release button must be pried off (it's just glued on). All this is somewhat intimidating, the actual repair is not all that bad... Category: Repairs
Q My shutter release is stuck in the down position. I read the repair tip about the cover interlock switch and followed the instructions but that did not help. What should I try next? Thanks, David Price
A I'm assuming the battery is OK on the self-test, and that the wind-on is complete. If the red shutter button is physically stuck down i.e. it does not spring slightly when pressed, you would need to disassemble it. To do that I believe that you need to remove the top cover (which you've done already) and then take the shutter release button apart to clean the contacts. I think it is glued together so you'd have to be careful.
Q I have two xa's and am wondering why the apertures do not seem to be the same. Neither are the needle light readings, or the shutter speeds. The camera with slightly larger apertures and light readings(i gather there are two light meters in the camera) has longer, more sluggish speeds in the same conditions. I have yet to shoot some pictures but can't see how they would perform the same. Which is correct? Could the aperture switch be wrong? If the needle reading is the same why does the slower camera better approximate a second, for example, but at high speeds sound too slow? Thanks!
A It's not uncommon for the XA's indicated shutter speeds to disagree with the actual shutter speed by up to a full stop or so - as you say they are driven by separete cells. But two XAs should give the same actual shutter speed in the same light conditions - for a given aperture film speed of course. My advice is to beg, borrow or steal an exposure meter or other known reliable camera. In an evenly lit room with everything pointing to an evenly lit wall, see which of the XA's actual shutter speeds agrees with the reference meter or camera. You can usually hear this clearly at around a 1 sec exposure. That'll tell you what exposure the XA will actually give and what is indicated. Now, given that repair costs are high, you can compensate for an incorrect exposure with the film speed setting. You's have to use your head to compensate for what is indicated though. At the end of the day, modern films have a very wide latitude - certainly more than 1 or even 2 stops so the problem may not even notice.
Q Hello: My wonderful XA was working beautifully, but all of a sudden the shutter speed needle has disappeared. The shutter seems to be firing at appropriate speeds, but there is no indicator in the viewfinder window. I think I see something that might be the needle way up in the top left corner of the viewfinder. I could be wrong. What has happened? How do I fix it? Thanks for any help you can give.
A That's a real shame. The XA has two separate metering systems - one for the shutter and aperture, the other totally separate systems drives the needle that you used to see. So, everything will still work fine - it's just that you won't see what the shutter speed is going to be. I'm assuming it's not a battery problem. It's always worth trying a little brute force and tapping the base of the camera fairly hard against the palm of your hand - it might possibly dislodge the needle - but don't blame me if it does any damage (it shouldn't though). Ir give the camera a sharp rotation back and forward just with your wrist. If none of that works and the batteries are OK, could be a repair job. There are some repairers on the FAQ page on the r. Lee Hawkins FAQ. perhaps some other folk will have some other ideas.
I WOULD LIKE TO USE ASA, 800 BUT 500 WONT HANDLE VERY MUCH LIGHT; CAN I USE AN ND FILTER ON THIS CAMEREA? IF YES, WHERE DO I PURCHASE ONE?
There are no filters that would fit an XA - because it doesn't have a screw fitting on the lens. You could try to improvise something perhaps by taping a Cokin type filter to the camera.
Category: XA Cameras
1 visitor(s) thought this was helpful. Do you? Yes, it was helpful No, it was not helpful
Q where can I get a copy of the instructions for using an XA
A On this site - on the XA page (The full manual is here). It's a PDF.
Q Are Rayovac 357 (silver) suitable for my XA? Thanks for a very useful site.
A Yes, they are Silver Oxide batteries - equivalent to the SR44 which is the "standard" battery.
Q Not so much a question, I've a comment on the question " I am confused a bit by the DX operations of the XA-3. When is the camera in "DX" mode, and when is it using the manual ISO selection settings? Can I switch back and forth? Does the DX override manual settings when a new cassette is put in? " This question is in the "Photograohy with XA" section. Puzzled by the same question I conducted a little test which to me would seem to be quit conclusive. For this I used an XA3, indoors in average light conditions. I did not load it with film, which implies that DX-coding can not be read by the camera. I then put the ISO setting to 25 and fired the shutter. As might be expected the audible and visible (when looking into the lens) exposure time was rather long. I then changed the setting to 50, 100 and so forth, each time firing the shutter. Again as might be expected the exposure time decreased. Next I put a film casette with DX coding (200 ISO in this case) into the camera without actually advancing the film onto the sprockets, you might need to rewind the film sticking out of the cassette a little to avoid it being taking up. Closed the camera an repeated the above mentioned steps, again changing the ISO setting from 25 upwards and firing the shutter each time. Now no change to the exposure time was discernible, regardless of the manual setting. This indicates to me clearly that the automatic setting when using DX coded cassettes overrides the manual setting. I suppose one could avoid this if so desired by putting some thin tape or a piece of paper over the coding on the cassette or maybe just black out the whole area with a felt tipped pen. I did not try that, don't know whether you could damage the contacts that way. Well that's all, perhaps this information can be usefull to you or visitors to your splendid site. many kind regards, Joan Könings (The Netherlands)
A Thanks Joan for this useful information.
Category: Flash
Q How can I get other flashguns to work with XA
A You can't really. You can use a more powerfull gun with a slave attachment and tell XA you have 400 film when you really have 100 - that'll give a nice fill-in effect. Otherwise you'll just have to use available light like me and see how much better it is!
Q Can I use an A9 flash gun (XA1) on an XA2?
A Yes, you can. They are the same fitting as the A11 unit. The A9 was a cut-down version especially for the XA1 and it doesn't let you select film speed.
Q My A-11 flash stopped working for no apparent reason? Anyone else had any troubles?
A The A-11 is normally very reliable. I'm asssuming the mechanics work but it doesn't charge up. It's worth checking the battery contacts - they can easily get a bit corroded and could then be cleaned up. Unlikely you could repair it internally, so I suggest you could pick up a new flash on ebay.
Q First: compliments on your excellent site which drew me to the XA's first. I've recently acquired a XA3 for Euro 10. Working fine. Just the flash lever does not move all the way to the left, does this only work with a flash attached? I have not got a flashgun yet so can't try it out. I do prefer available light but do want a flash on the site for the occasional snap-hot's.
A The flash lever only moves when a flash is attached. Glad that, like me, you prefer not to use flash. Thanks for the nice words about my site. Martin.
Category: Batteries
Q Is the battery type important.
A Yes - look at the information against each model on this site. Life is too short for cheap non SR batteries.
Category: Batteries
Q What batteries can I now use in my xa that are proper and with no other consequences
A The details of the correct batteries are shown for each model - just look on this site. Batteries are not expensive yet fail when you neeed them most, so always carry a couple of spares. Buy reputable makes and use Silver cells (prefixed SR). If you realy hate batteries, Olympus designed the XA1 just for you!
Q Can I use the cheaper LR44 batteries in my XA?
A Up to you, but why would you want to unless they are the only ones available. Other than that, you can. They don't last nearly as long.
Q What batteries can I now use in my xa that are proper and with no other consequences Do Ineed to get 5.6 and does Olympus approve
A SR44 but LR44 will do if necessary in most cases. Doesn't matter what Olympus think - your camera is ell out of guarantee now!
Q I've got an XA on it's way after having won it on Ebay. The XA requires the same type of battery as my Lomo LC-A, as far as I can tell. For probably the past year, I've been using "357" batteries produced by Energizer (reputable company) which are marketed for certain toys and electronic books. They are the same size and voltage as the SR44, as well as being silver oxide rather than alkaline. These batteries, however, run under $5US for THREE, as opposed to about $3US each. I guess my question is, do you reckon these would be acceptable for use in my XA?
A The Energizer 357 is a direct equivalent of the SR44 so you've found yourself a good bargain!!!
Category: Film
Q Can I use very high speed file in my XA?
A Look at the speed range against each camera - 1600 is the fastest. You can use faster films but they will overexpose if there is enough light to get an exposure within the shutter / aperture range ie. 10 seconds at 2.8.
Q Why do you suggest Fuji film - what\'s wrong with Kodak?
A This is your decision but as an ex professional photographer who grew up with Kodak, I am now sure that Fuji have the edge. They seem to be able to get vibrant and subtle colours on the same film whereas Kodak need 2 film types for this. Kodak also allow their name to be used by any old third rate lab - something they will live to regret. Their own labs in the UK are also amongst the worst. Kodak movie film by contrast is excellent - so perhaps that is where they see their future.
Q Why do you say that ISO 25-1600 films can be used? My XA and XA-2 only goes to ISO 800. Are you thinking of the +1.5 exposure compensation? Or have I missed something? Great site, by the way! Makes me want to go out with my XA again.
A You are right - a bit of a booboo! I'll change the info on the site asap.
Q I have just bought an XA-2 (Today) Unused as yet and before I have had an opportunity to try things out. Is the meter accurate enough to deliver consistent results with transparency film? OK, assuming it is not reading all sky or something else which wil
A Congratulations on getting an XA2 - I just know you'll love it. The meter is pretty damned good but it is not through-the-lens (and it will not be as accurate as an incident meter such as the Weston (www.westonmeter.org.uk)). Personally I don't ever use transparency film now, but it's latitude has improved over the last few years. I've never had a badly exposed negative on either of my XA2s and they have been all round the world in all sorts of light. I think you'll be absolutely fine but I would test it before you start shooting for real to set your mind at rest.
Q Good evening, Sir I suppose the film transport of my XA is not working correctly, as the distance between the single shots on the film stripe vary from 1mm to 4mm. What can I do, please?
A This sounds like a fault with the internal mechanism and is probably beyond what you or I could fix. A local camera mechanic might be able to give you the cost of a repair. Alternatively a new XA could be bought for around 50 euros on ebay.
Q Wow, a great website and i guess "i need one and i need it now". My question about film: the fuji-film you recommend, is this a colour-negative or colour-slide-film? Is the xa able to make the right exposure for an sensitive colur-slide-film? Thank you very much, Gerhard Reider
A Hi Gerhard. The Fuji film I recomend is Fujicolor Superia 200. The 400 gives a bit more speed for low-light conditions, but looses some of the lovely colour saturation of the 200. The 100 gives slightly better colour than the 200 and you could try it in good light conditions but personally I find the 200 a good compromise. Of course good quality printing is essential and you need to make sure that the lab are using a good digital set-up. The Fuji digital minilabs such as the Frontier 370 provide superb print quality - it's worth asking whoever you use what equipment they are using - lots of labs still use poor quality equipment which results in muddy prints..
Category: Repairs
Q Recently aquired an XA2.Altough meter works perfectly shutter dooes not release and winder carries on winding and does not lock.Can I repair this fault?
A (Actually John found the soloutio.....) On an internet forum someone suggested repeatedly pushing in film release button on bottom of XA2 and repeatedly trying to fire shutter.What d'ya know, after a few goes the shutter released and has been working ever since.Maybe you could put the tip on your website! Keep up the good work, your XA site is in my faves.
Q How can I get my XA repaired?
A In the UK try Colchester Cameras 2 Barrack Street Colchester Essex CO1 2LJ Tel: 01206 790009 Camera Clinic Turn Park Station Rd. Chester-le-Street Co Durham DH3 3DY. Tel 0191 388 7001 Luton Cameras Bristol 17 West Street Old Market Bristol, BS2 0DF. Tel 01179 550541 Luton Camera Repairs 49 Guildford St. Luton Beds LU1 2NJ. Tel 01582 458323 You can also search the web - there are a few camera mechanics who offer tips - like how to fix an iffy shutter release - this is the most irritating fault they develop - you sometimes have to press the shutter a second time by which time ..... Otherwise, just try good camera repairers. Might also be worth getting a spare!
Q How do I fix the cover interlock switch on an XA? The problem prevents the shutter from firing.
A Thanks to Simon sje@lrc.ruralwales.org . Actually repairing the shutter release problem is fairly easy and within the abilities of most people who are reasonably handy. The problem is usually caused by the cover interlock switch. This switch keeps you from firing the camera when the cover is closed and is somewhat subject to getting dirty contacts from dust. If I remember right the switch is under the cover on the top right (as you look at the front of the camera) and is accessed by removing the bottom plate and then removing the sliding cover. Be sure not to loose the little ball bearing the cover rides on. I always recommend working over (or in) a dish to catch the little parts you drop. Only tool needed is a good "0" or "00" phillips screwdriver and maybe some tweezers. You'll see the switch when you remove the cover. I think it may be necessary to remove the top to clean the contacts, it comes off with a couple of screws, and the rewind crank plus I think the release button must be pried off (it's just glued on). All this is somewhat intimidating, the actual repair is not all that bad...
Q The black foam that provides the light-tight seal between the door and the body of my XA has gone all gooey. Help!!!!
A You are in luck. Dave Thomes does a replacement foam kit. Email him directly or buy from Ebay. (He's US based). dthomas@clake.org
Q The XA's working great but the needle in the viewerfinder stays near the base very very still... despite the shutter firing from 4 to 1/500. Now I won't know if the exposure is going to be over. Any advice to fix the needle? Thanks a million
A The XA has two separate meter cells - one powers the needle and the other the shutter (don't ask me why though!!!). Looks like yours has failed the "right" way - your shutter should be fine but the needle will be dead so you will not know what speed it is using. In normal light that's not a big deal. Repairs to the XA are possible - the R.Lee Hawkins FAQ link on the FAQ area will list some repairers in the USA - I'd make sure you get a firm estimate though! Parts for the XA are in very limited supply though. You may do better to bite the bullit and get a new one - ebay is a good source. Regards Martin.
A I have just bought my 1st XA (ebay). Bought my 1st XA-3 less than a month ago. (Both are unbelievable). I know there is a US supplier of foam seals but has a UK supplier emerged recently?
Not heard of a UK based supplier but I hear the US guy is fine. As the postage on a couple of foam seals is hardly anything, I'd get them from him dthomas@clake.org via Ebay if you like. It's called a revitalising kit. Enjoy getting the old gungy ones out!
Q Where can I read a manufacturer's manual on he Olympus camera XA2 which would have come with the original purchase.
A The manual that came with the camera will be on the website soon after Christmas. I think that there is a workshop manual available from a website somewhere - I'm sure Google woild find it!
QI have some problems rewinding the film in my xa. Turning the film winder is realy hard and sometimes crushes the perforation at the end of the film. The problem seems to be the film take-up spool which stays only to move with force after pressing the
A Make sure you are loading the film correctly on the take-up spool - check the instruction manual - there is a copy downloadable on this website. It may be that the little button you press to allow you to rewind is not staying in - try holding it in when you rewind the film (may need more than one person to do all this!!!). Let us know the results.
Q Hi, how can I remove the back of my XA2? There are a lot of scratches on it and I would like to paint it.
A To get the back off, you'll need to remove the baseplate - there are screws there you'll need to remove. However ..... it'll be difficult to match the original finish which is rather special in terms of look and feel but less than scratch resistant. My own XAs have nearly all get big scratches on th back. I look at that as a kind of trophy. It shows they have been well used and could speak volumes about the places they have been. Pure collectors would want A1 condition and not a respray whereas buyers will be happy to know your XA has been around a bit - as long as it works of course.
Q Hello. My XA has a got a nasty habit. The timer function is active even when not selected. What is the most probable cause for this misbehavior??? Regards Niels
A Sounds like a faulty switch or perhaps a fault with the circuitry. If you are very handy with small tools you could try checking out the switch by removing the base. I'm not familiar with the switch mechanism but it should make contact when the switch is set to self-time and break contact at any other setting. If it is the circuitry then there is not a lot you can do.
Q hi everybody! I just bought a xa from e-bay.First film I shot was excellent but after 2-3 films I noticed that the lightmeter gives -3 stops than normal (overexposes).I also noticed that the new(?) cell that came with it, was a 3v lithium. Is it possible
A Hi. The XA actually uses two separate light detectors - one for the exposure settings and one for the meter needle you see in the viewfinder. So the good news is that the actual exposure may be OK. The XA should be powered by SR44 cells - any other type can cause incorrect exposure readings which can be disguised bu the very wide latitude of modern films. Suggest you put SR44s in. Then put the camera in a room where the needle indicated a 1 second exposure. Then release the shutter - you'll be able to hear if it is actually giving 1 second. If the fault is with the meter needle cell alone, either live with it or get a quote for a repair but it will be costly I'm afraid.
Q I think I have some moistness on the viewfinder of my XA camera. How can I clean it? Is it a good idea to use a hair dryer?
A The danger is that a hair dryer will evaporate the moisture and deposit it somewhere else inside the camera. That might be OK but it might not. An alternative would be to get hold of some silica gel - you know, the stuff that they put in little white bags with computers and cameras to absorb the moisture. Put the XA in a poly bag along with the bag of silica gel, tie up the bag, and place somewhere warmish lile an airing cupboard or even in the lounge for a few days. If that doesn't work, try someplace warmer but don't put it in the oven!!!! Best of luck.
Q Thanks for your help with my stuck shutter speed needle. I banged the camera against a few things, and eventually started playing with taking off the base plate. Something worked, because the needle has reappeared. I am having trouble focussing the camera. There is not much contrast in the rangefinder patch, and I wonder if a cleaning would help. Do you have any suggestions about opening up the camera and swabbing those parts? I love my camera more and more every day, but would like a little more accuracy in the focussing, especially in low light....
A I'd be very wary about opening up the camera to clean the rangefinder, which is very delicate. If you can find a good camera repairer locally, they might be able to do it for you.
Q Hi, my XA cant wind film properly, it takes it when i load (the take-up spool works), but if i close the camera, the film won't move. Also the sprocket teeth wheel is loose and not moving when i wind up, and the release button on the bottom is all the way in and won't engage when i shut the door or install new film, ever encountered this problem? thank you
A The release buuton should come back down - if it doesn't, then I really don't know why it is stuck. Presumably you can't reach it with tweezers and pull it down? You can always try the sharp tap on the camera base - some rolled-up newspaper or an old book but nothing hard please! Removing the base it fairly easy - you'll see the screws and you may well be able to free the release button then but I've not done it so can't be sure.
Q Once again I've returned to your inspiring site. Got a question for which I found no reference on the site so far. The father of a friend of my son very kindly gave me his old XA2 and A11 flash. Although the camera functions fine as far as I can tell sofar, the sliding door does not lock left or right. In other words it's loose. Any suggestions what might cause this? If you have any comments on this I would very much welcome them before I start taking it apart. Thanks an keep up the good work, kind regards, Joan Könings, The Netherlands
A XAs use a simple little metal ball under the sliding cover which clicks into one of two indentations to hold it open or closed. It sounds like this ball may be missing. You can remove the sliding cover by very carefully lifting it away from the back of the camera body and then up and over the top of the camera. I hate doing this because I am afraid it will break, but this hasn't happened yet! (The proper way is to remove the bottom plate, but I have not done this) Do this over something in case the ball is just stuck and jumps out. Hopefully you will be able to see if this is the problem and replace the missing ball with something similar.
Q I have both xa and xa2 and they are great. Xa2 is my favourite all-around camera but I have noticed that its red firing button is kinda loose and as a result the shutter doesn't fire as spontaneously as xa's. In fact, sometimes I have to press it 2 or 3 times to fire. Do you think it will be easy to fix it myself? The camera have costed me only 25$ but it is a pity to stop using it. Its lens and overall condition is brilliant. By the way, your site is great!!
A You have come across a problem that some XAs suffer from. It's annoying because sometimes you will press the shutter at the perfect moment then nothing happens, and by the time you have pressed it again, the moment has gone. I have an XA2 that has the same problem so I know! You wll need to take the top part of the case off The Olympus XA Repair manual is available in the Manuals section of this website. The red button is fixed with glue and it seems that on your camera it has come unstuck and will need re-gluing. It is worth trying to make a repair but you can always buy a new one on ebay for not much money.
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